Written by our Founder Abdirizaq Abdullahi: I was born in Hargeisa, so this city has always meant a lot to me. After spending many years abroad, I came back to reconnect with it. I still walk its streets, speak to its people, and see how it is changing. What I’m sharing here is based on my personal experiences and what I’ve seen with my own eyes.
Hargeisa is the capital of Somaliland, a country that isn’t officially recognized, but that functions with its own government, currency, and borders. For Somalilanders, Hargeisa is more than just a capital. It’s a symbol of survival and pride. After the civil war, the city was nearly destroyed, but like a phoenix rising from the ashes. It was rebuilt through the strength and determination of its people. You’ll see the Somaliland flag painted everywhere on walls, cars, and even roadside stones.
Arriving at Egal International Airport, you’ll quickly feel Hargeisa’s unique setting. Nestled in a valley 1,300 meters above sea level, the city is cooler and breezier than the coast. It’s the largest city and home to over 1.2 million people. Alongside locals, you’ll meet Ethiopians, Yemenis, Syrians, and an increasing number of curious foreign travelers discovering Somaliland
Hargeisa began as a small stopover for traders moving between the port of Berbera and the highlands of Ethiopia. Some say the name comes from “Harar” and means “Little Harar.” When Somaliland became a British protectorate in 1884, Hargeisa slowly grew in importance, eventually becoming the capital in 1941, replacing Berbera.
These are places I believe give you a real feel for the city and its story. They’re based on my personal experience, and while others might list different spots, these are the ones that stayed with me.
One of the first places I always visit when I’m back in Hargeisa is the War Memorial. It’s the most iconic landmark in the city. The house I was born in is just a short walk from the War Memorial. If you search “Hargeisa” online, chances are this is the first image you’ll see. Located right in the heart of the city, it’s more than just a monument. It’s a place where people gather, rest, chat, and go about their day.
What stands out is the old Russian MiG-17 fighter jet placed high on a pedestal that tells a painful story. During the civil war between 1988 and 1991, the Somali dictator Mohamed Siad Barre used jets like this one to bomb Hargeisa. I’ve heard the stories from my family who lived through it. I was still a very young boy when my family and I had to flee Hargeisa during the bombing. The destruction was massive. Nearly 90% of the city was reduced to rubble, and countless lives were lost.
But Somaliland didn’t give up. In 1991, it declared independence and began the long journey of rebuilding. To me, this memorial is not only a reminder of the horrors of war, but also a symbol of how far the people of Somaliland have come. It’s there for the younger generation, so they never forget the past and so they can see the strength, hope, and resilience that rebuilt this city from ashes. I also have deep respect for the local people who stayed and lived through the war, facing the hardship head-on instead of fleeing.
The Central Market is where you really feel the heartbeat of Hargeisa. It’s busy, loud, full of color and a place where daily life plays out in full view. Sadly, Waheen Market, once the largest and most important marketplace in Somaliland, was badly damaged by a fire. Many local vendors lost their shops, goods and with that their livelihoods. The impact is still felt deeply by the community.
As part of the Somali diaspora, or in Somali language ‘gorbajoog‘, I’ve noticed that many of the diaspora don’t often go into Hargeisa’s city center. Most prefer quieter neighborhoods or cafés outside of downtown. I’m different. Because our office is in the city center, I go almost every day. I enjoy the energy of the streets, meeting locals, and supporting small restaurants and vendors. It keeps me connected to the real Hargeisa.
You can find almost everything in the Central Market. From clothes and spices to phone chargers and fresh fruit. It’s the place to go if you need to buy something. It’s also a handy spot for travelers who might not be dressed appropriately. You can easily pick up local clothes like shawls, scarves, or long skirts right in the market. While you’re there you can visit the money exchangers nearby. Bundles of Somaliland shillings are stacked high in the open markets. These stacks are tightly wrapped in netting and laid out on tables or even on the ground by local money exchangers. You can take photo’s and exchange some money here.
It might not sound glamorous at first, but it’s one of the most fascinating, lively, and real places you can visit in Somaliland. Hargeisa’s livestock market isn’t just any market. It’s one of the largest in East Africa. Every single day, thousands of camels, goats, sheep and other livestock are traded here. For first-time visitors, the scale of it all can be a little overwhelming. The noise, the dust, the animals and the shouting can feel chaotic.
What makes this place so special isn’t just the size, but the culture behind it. This is a place where bargaining is an art form, passed down through generations. In Somaliland livestock is the backbone of the economy. According to the Somaliland Chamber of Commerce (2025) it accounts for around 60% of the country’s GDP and gives work to over 70% of the population.
I usually take our guests there early in the morning, just after 7 or 8 AM when the market is at its busiest. That’s when the most action happens. You’ll see camels being inspected, prices shouted over a crowd, and deals sealed with a handshake. And if you’re lucky to visit during the lead-up to the Hajj pelgrim season, the market is even more alive as animals are prepared for export to countries like Saudi Arabia, the UAE and Oman.
When I visit the market with clients, locals often mistake me for a foreigner. Because of my lighter skin, they assume I don’t speak Somali. The look on their faces when I reply fluently always makes me smile. These moments make the market feel both personal and fresh, as I see it through my culture and through our guests’ eyes.
The Hargeisa Livestock Market is more than just a place to buy and sell animals. It’s a cultural stage and livelihood of Somaliland. This place should be visited by anyone who is coming to Somaliland.
The Hargeisa Cultural Center (HCC) should not be overlooked during your visit. It was founded by the Redsea Cultural Foundation, formally launching in August 2014 during the Hargeisa International Book Fair. The Founder dr. Jama Musse Jama is a friend of mine and I consider him to be the most prominent expert in Somali culture and history. The center is located just across Jees Hotel.
For anyone interested in Somali art, culture and to hear old Somali stories this is the place to go. When you walk inside the center you will see a gallery filled with antique books, Islamic manuscripts, traditional Somali artifacts, art paintings and cassette tape wall with thousands of recordings that survived the Somali Civil War. The cassette tapes contain music, poetry, plays, and personal stories smuggled out or hidden during wartime. One of my favorite section is the art paintings gallery where paintings from young Somali artists are showed. These have often deep messages on current issues such as Somali youth crossings the Mediterranean Sea by boat in search for a better life.
The center also hosts one of East Africa’s most prominent literary festivals. If you’re traveling to Somaliland between June – August you have a chance to visit The Hargeisa International Book Fair (HIBF). The fair brings together authors, poets, and readers to celebrate Somali literature and culture.
